Cape Town’s stunning and extraordinary geography dictated its urban development as a group of settlements strung around the beautiful coastline, many set between mountain and sea. Each has its own unique vibe. We will focus on a few of these as we give you a starter taste of The Saunter’s choices around the Cape Point: Noordhoek and Kommetjie then around to Simon’s Town. This particular blog excludes Fishoek to St James.
The highlight of any trip to Cape Town has to walking to the lighthouses and looking down onto the swirling sea at Cape Point Nature Reserve. It is magical even with mist swathing the view. One feels as if this must be the most southern tip of Africa, but that claim goes to Cape Aghulas, 150kms east where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. Here, the Atlantic Ocean surges against the rocks and there is no land between you and Antarctica and the South Pole.
Portuguese explorer, Bartholomeu Dias was commissioned to find a new sea route to Asia and when he finally rounded the Cape, he wrote to the emperor saying he had reached the end of the continent, therefore found a way to Asia. He called it the Cape of Storms. John II of Portugal was so thrilled, he renamed it, Cape of Good Hope.
Wild life is everywhere… baboons in particular. They are great characters to watch but be careful… don’t approach or feed them! There are ostriches, caracal, otters, mongoose, bontebok and eland plus others and we suggest on our website, (just click on the link) some good walks besides the lighthouses, to explore the area with gems of beaches and shipwrecks.
Reaching Cape Point can be via the Ou Kaapse Weg or the stunning Chapman’s Peak Drive. Our first port of call is Noordhoek which had just lost its huge sand dunes when the Cape of Storms recently lived up to the name. In a beautiful setting, you can savour Cape Point Winery’s offerings… award winning whites and delectable food.
Enjoy a variety of walks through the Silvermine Nature Reserve which covers over 2000 ha of mainly mountain fynbos. The Silvermine River flows through a forested gorge and joins up with a tributary flowing over a picturesque waterfall. Our website gives details.
For those who love their craft beers, Noordhoek has a fabulous laid back little brewery and eatery, the Aegir Project Brewery.
We visit Kommetjie next: a small, close-knit beach village which has it all: country vibes, ocean and mountain views to die for and a wonderful holiday feeling, It has remained mostly un-touristy with chilled locals so offers tranquility. At the foot of Slangkop Mountain (a hill really), Kommetjie is a mix of surf shacks, fancy beach houses and everything in between. Anything that is beach facing, whether you are on the shore front or against the hillside, will have magnificent views over the Altantic. Houtbay and Noordhoek nestled in their majestic mountains form the backdrop.
See our specially chosen suggestions for accommodation: stunning barefoot luxury Last Word Long Beach is simply perfectly placed for you to enjoy panoramic views. For self -caterers, Blue Mountain Alley sits near the path up Slagkop with a pool and charming courtyard garden to relax in.
It is a place to take wonderful beach walks…all the way to Noordhoek if you like, surf, laze on the beach, climb the Slanghoek and in particular, to watch gorgeous sunsets.
It has a good number of artists and crafters and the first weekend in December sees the studios all open up to visitors. Whenever you arrive, don’t leave without visiting the studios of Lauren Holmes and Purely Porcelain.
Blue Water Café is a great stop to enjoy good casual Cape food which will hit the spot for the entire family.
As you leave Kommetjie, turn right into Slangkop and visit the mosaic studio of Reagan Rubain. Working from a tiny area this young mosaic artist has created work for visitors and the city alike.
The False Bay side of the peninsula has the warmer waters and you are spoiled for choice of beaches. On the plateau is a novel place for yummy scones or peacan pie, The Scone Shack. A rustic shack built from old windows, an eclectic assortment of fowl, pigs, dog, cat and other friends, this scenic spot is a little rustic farm treasure in which to chill.
The first beach outside the reserve is Smitwinkelbaai (or Smits)… a gem that requires effort. You can miss it easily as hidden from the road. It is a lovely cove with waves. Private housing patch works up the mountain. You park at the top and take everything down the steep mountain path with you…and leave absolutely nothing behind.
Curving around further along False Bay, about 5km before Simon’s Town is beautiful, remote Miller’s Point. With two sections: the first turn leads to a caravan park, restaurant and a beach; the other leads to Rumbly Bay, with boat-launching sites, a boulder-dotted beach and a stunning tidal pool with water slide. There are incredible views across the rocky bay, changing rooms and a grassed picnic and braai area. It’s also a great spot for kayaking, snorkelling, surf skiing and scuba-diving. There is a small charge on entry.
More great beaches: If you follow the signs to Seaforth Beach from the Main Road, park and follow the paved path behind the restaurant to a wooden gate. This is a gem… Water’s Edge, a wonderful, secluded bay, with some relief from the crowds, and a great place to explore rock pools.
Boulders Beach near Simon’s Town is a sheltered cove and home to a large colony of African penguins. A board walk leads you to good vantage points so these delightful little creatures are not disturbed. It is a memorable experience for the whole family. .
The cove to the left of it is a great place to swim and has been voted as one of the worlds top 20 beaches. It is a wonderful area to connect with nature, relax on the sand or take a refreshing swim.
Simon’s Town is one of South Africa’s oldest towns, renowned for its rich maritime history and is home to the South African Navy, which holds a festival in the town every April. The town itself, is home to a colony of penguins and a film has been made of their antics in the town and residential areas.
The Royal Navy base was in Simon’s Town and the Simon’s Town Museum is well worth a visit. In it you will find some interesting exhibits and information including stories about Able Officer, Just Nuisance. Just Nuisance was a Great Dane who liked navel uniforms and tended to follow them. He was adept at riding on the train by himself and he liked ships! He was so named by British sailors as he liked to lie on the gang plank, blocking every one’s use of it.
Just Nuisance became an official member of the Royal Navy, making him the only dog to ever do so. He commenced his duties in the Royal Navy and was issued with his own sailor’s cap. A special collar was made for him to which his free pass was attached. His official documents say that he was a “Bone-crusher” by trade and that his religious denomination was a “Scrounger”. As with any other member, benefits came with the title. He slept on the sailors’ beds, attended parades and had a free train pass. His presence was a WW11 morale booster and he sailed with one of the ships. There is a statue of him overlooking the town.
Look out for the beautiful mosaic bench tops in memory of those who were evicted from their homes in 1968. The benches have “Wag n’ Bietjie” on them… created by Reagan Rubain.
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