The Wild Coast is the northern section of the Eastern Cape, traditionally from the Kei mouth to the Kwa Zulu Natal border. Now days, all north of and including Cintsa, falls within the Wild Coast. It feels as if the world of development has passed the area by, once you head for the coast and away from the bigger towns. Roads can be tar or dirt and will be potholed with the added challenges of livestock: goats, cows, chickens and geese, enjoying the road too.
Rolling hills are dotted with thatched mud huts, painted green, turquoise, pink and blue. Locals are Xhosa and Pondo people with a rich cultural heritage. Many freedom fighters were Xhosa, including, Nelson Mandela. Both men and women can smoke pipes and as you drive you may still see men trotting on horseback with blankets over them, even in summer.
The name comes from the coast line with magnificent cliffs and treacherous rocks off the coast which caught out even savvy sailors. Many wrecks attest to the dangers of this coast line. The area’s charm lies in its wildness and sense of being untamed and timeless. This is not a holiday destination for those who want glitz. It is where one slows down to local pace to enjoy staggering scenery, abundant bird and marine life and beautiful long beaches which you may share with cows rather than crowds, away from public holidays. Along the coast are pockets of protected marine reserves. For many locals, the sea is one of their ancestors’ resting places and so holds spiritual connotations. At any time of year, you are likely to see dolphin and in part of the year whales moving to their birthing places further north.
The area is spoilt for superb beaches, there are some exceptional waterfalls and fabulous walks over the hills to get from one cove to another. Fishing is a popular pass time and be warned that you need permits for fishing and collecting muscles, oysters and crayfish. River and off shore boating are also popular.
One small town of choice is Port St Johns, set on the banks of a mighty river, the Umzimvubu and towered over by majestic cliffs, The Gates, which the river has carved. Fish eagles cry over head. This friendly, rustic little place has a slight feel of a frontier town. It is a beautiful setting and there is lots to explore. Take a river barge ride up river, do a sea launch to go deep sea fishing or shark diving, go on hikes to a local village, kayak up the river, get beautified Pondo style or watch the sun go down with a glass of wine from the stunning view point. This town has always attracted interesting people. Join a local raconteur to hear tales that will fascinate you and bring the history of this town alive.
Cintsa is another gem, and a very different small village with the feel of more southerly Eastern Cape seaside towns. It is well kept and offers a beautiful beach and river plus lots of local and nearby activities from riding on the beach, to canoeing, to zip lining. Nearby is a lovely coastal walk to the Bat Caves, an area of prehistoric importance. Take a boat trip to watch whales and dolphin or enjoy good food in a rural craft brewery.
One of the world’s greatest wildlife events takes place off this coast each year in winter … the Sardine Run. See our special section on it. Whether you are a land lover or a diver, or simply want to view from a boat, this is an unmissable show as millions of sardines move up the coast attracting birds and marine life alike, in feeding frenzies.
The Wild Coast has simple self- catering cottages, bed and breakfasts and old- fashioned hotels in the main. We have a few gems for you to choose from (3 to 4 star). Check to see if your chosen route needs normal wheels or 4×4 and we suggest that you do not drive at night given that livestock like to sleep on the warm road. Allow extra time in case of punctures and avoid driving through the towns at peak hours as congestion can be horrific.
